Flurocarbon Fishing LineMade from polyvinylidene floride (PVDF) and usually blended with other synthetics, flurocarbon line is very similar to monofilament line, but stronger. When it was first introduced, it was stiffer and this made it most suitable for use as a leader, but it was way too stiff for most fishing situations. Over the past decade, manufacturers have refined flurocarbon line to make it a great replacement for monfilament and brought the price down. Also bass anglers use florucarbon line to get their crankbaits down deeper because flurocarbon line sinks as mono floats.
Nylon Monofilament Fishing LineMonofilament line comes in many different colors and test weights. From clear, transparent to "camo" tinted, mono line has been a proven performer. Some mono is double layered. This means that there is an inner line coated with an outer tube of a different material to enhance certain performance characteristics. Unless it gets severly strained, stretched or frayed, monofilament line lasts for a good amount of time, although it is a good idea to periodically cut off a couple yards after a fishing trip.
Braided Nylon Fishing LineMostly used by a small bunch of baitcasters and surf anglers, braided nylon line has lost most of its appeal with the appearance of ultra-thin braids. Although it tends to spool better onto revolving reels, it is thicker and more visible in the water than monofilament. The fact that it is more expensive is also a factor in declining use.
Braided Dacron Fishing LineBraided Dacron is mostly used for saltwater trolling and by fly anglers for backing line. It is much thinner than braided nylon and does not stretch.
Fly LineFly line is completely different from other fishing line because the lines function is not the same.Fly casting relies on the line to unfurl and place the fly presentaion, not just a vague aim and cast. Fly casters will use monofilament or flurocarbon leaders, but the working, flying part of the line is usually a green or yellow colored thick plastic-like material.
First of all, Flyline has a Taper. This means that its thickness can change from the leader end to the backing line connection. The 3 basic taper types are Level Line, Double Taper, and Weight-forward. Level line means that there is no taper at all, the line is the same thickness from one end to the other. Double tapered line is thinner at the leader end, grows thicker thru half its length and then tapers back down at the backing line end. This type of taper is symmetrical and can be flipped around when the leader end gets worn. Double tapered fly line is mostly used for presenting smaller flies. Weight-forward fly line is similar to the double taper except, as the name implies, it taper is shifted forward on the line and it quickly tapers back to a level line section called the running line. Forward tapers are used on heavier flies and long casts.
Manufacturers have created a standardized labeling system for fly line that runs from No. 4 thru No. 12. No. 4 line works on lighter rods and catches panfish and other smaller game, while the higher numbers are used for tarpon and billfish. Manufacturers have also standardized labeling for taper designations and the floatability of the line. A line that is level is labeled L before its weight designation(No. 5 for example). DT stands for Double Taper and WF for Weight-forward Taper. The floatability or buoyancy is labeled F for floating and S for sinking.
Ultra-thin Braided Fishing LineBraided line is a whole different story. Before the invention of monofilament line, braided or spun line was all there was to choose from. These natural fiber lines where not dependable. They would snag and fray very easily and dry-rot very quickly. It was also not very light-weight, compared to todays modern line. Nowadays the braided synthetic lines available are in many ways superior to monofilament. They are made from kevlar and polyethylene. They do not stretch. They also have the great quality of being incredibly strong, yet usually less than half the diameter of the monofilament counterpart. This is great if you are going after fish that don't spook easily when they see the line, but because they have no transparency, more timid fish tend to stay away from braided line.
Most tackle stores are happy to spool up your reel, particularly those who have a line winding machine. If you have the time, and they have the quality line you want, let them do it.
Spooling Monofilament Line
On To Your Fishing Reel
But, if you would like to do it yourself:
To spool up a bait casting reel, or any conventional reel, put a rod, or even a pencil, through the center of the line spool. Tie the line to the reel with a (Uni-knot or Arbor knot) clipping off the tag end. Snug the knot to the reel spool. One person should reel while another holds both ends of the rod, applying pressure as the line is reeled onto the spool. Fill to about an 1/8 inch from the spool's outer rim. Keep the line away from anything that could cause abrasion.
Use the same procedure with a spinning reel, but reel line so that it comes off the end of the spool. After 15 or 20 turns, if a twist occurs, turn the spool over and continue to fill the reel.
Monofilament will twist. If it happens while fishing from a boat, play the line out with nothing on the end, trolling behind the boat for about five minutes. It is also important to always use a ball-bearing swivel, which will reduce or eliminate line twist. Certain lures or bait tied directly to the line will invite twist. To compensate for this, try lighter line. Just for your own education and enjoyment, go down in line test. You will be surprised that you can catch big fish on line much lighter than you are presently using. It may take more patience and even a little more skill, but you will enjoy it. If fish stop biting, go to a lighter test. The thinner line may get them eating again. The thinner the line, the less likely a fish sees it.
|Always check the line for nicks or areas of abrasion that will cause a weakness. After every fishing trip, or after playing out a nice fish, cut off approximately ten feet of line and retie, if you have reason to believe it may have been frayed. This is very important. |
When fighting a decent fish, in fresh or saltwater, three things can happen: (1) the fish goes deep, pulling the line across rocks, logs or other hard objects, (2) the fish is big and the line will rub across its body or tail, and (3) other things, such as the boat, a jetty, surface objects or dock, or even other fish inthe area, may bump into your line. All three factors will cause abrasion, eventually prompting the line to break. The easiest solution is to cut off the weak line and retie.
Quality monofilament that has not come in contact with the above items does not need to be totally replaced. (We have had saltwater charter boat captains catch over 20 Blue Marlin without respooling.) So, if you check your reel's drag system, your rod guides and cut away line that may be damaged, you will catch more fish.
First a good pair of line scissors is a must. Get the right type to allow you to make clean cuts on the strongest braided line.
Maintaince Tools For Fishing Line
Smaller, portable solutions like clippers are a great tool, but unfortunately will probably not cut through some braids.
A fishing Line Counter allows you to measure the line that you are adding to your reel and avoid over-spooling and wasted line.
A Line Threader can also save you time and frustration. It inserts into your reel's line guide.